"Egeria" is the name commonly assigned to the female author of the first existing travel diary, the late-antique "Itinerarium Egeriae." The incomplete ms. recounts her visits to sacred sites in the Near East, especially Jerusalem. Beyond the likelihood that she was a nun addressing members of her convent, we know nothing of the writer. I have borrowed her name to post short personal accounts of my travels abroad and my experiences at professional conferences.
Monday, May 28, 2012
Mycenae and Epidaurus
So far I have not been impressed by any of the Greek guides. They're friendly enough, but they've all been through the same training program. Hearing the identical anecdote retold twice in one day by two different persons (with slightly different details) becomes tedious. Occasionally the information provided is downright wrong, and the guide must know that. For example, at the Epidaurus Museum the guide told the group that the inscriptions on the wall were records of cures at the temple of Asclepius. They weren't; they were clearly labeled in Greek and English as records of construction expenses. On the positive side, though, Mycenae is much more accessible than it was the first time I visited there in 1967, but it hasn't lost any of its numinosity. Here is the dromos of the Treasury of Atreus.
Epidaurus, which was much less crowded, was certainly pleasant, even in the afternoon heat. The parodos of the theatre has been reconstructed, but the rest of the structure is much the same as it was in antiquity.
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